General Mounting Information
Rough Opening: By selecting one of our four standard vault door rough opening sizes, listed above, a 1/2" clearance on the height and 1/2" on each side (1.0" total) on the width is standard. If you order a custom sized vault door we automatically reduce the vault door frame to meet your rough opening dimension. This allows the installer to shim the frame into place. When mounted, with the door open, you will need a minimum of 1/4-1/2" of clearance from the bottom of the door, to the floor to determine if you need to create more of a threshold.
Needed after purchase: For standard size vault doors, purchase 10 anchors that are 1/2" to 5/8" in diameter and 3-4" in length. Custom sized vaults will have a different amount depending on the size purchased.
General Mounting Information: The door is hung like a pre-hung door, with the exception that it's heavy and will shift around as easy.
Read the entire instructions before beginning. Being cautious and using good judgment. These instruction are an outline and installation of the vaults are recommended to be done by a professional. We will not be liable for death, injury, or damage to property.
Place the vault door into position. Be sure to have it laid down on some type of support so the dial and handle does not get damaged. Position it in the doorway the way you want it. Lift, open and stabilize the door. You will likely need a pry bar or 2x4 to pry the door up (and out) to a 90 degree angle. As the door swings open, lift and pull the door at the same time, stabilizing the frame.
Once open, the door will need support on the outside corner, to help hold it up and to move frame back into the marked position.
Place an anchor stud ONLY in the frames anchor holes near the top and bottom hinge. Now that the frame is secure on one side, there should be a gap on the other side. If the door doesn't match up, hammer the frame in or out, and then wedge it (with wedging blocks) into marked position. Open and close the door, and check the attitude of the door compared to it's steel frame. Carefully close the door. Once closed, determine which direction you should shim the frame (between cement and frame). If the door is fitting well into the frame, both center locking lugs should engage and disengage with perhaps a little bit of clearance. If these conditions are good, skip to the last instructions.
You should be reading this section because the frame may require adjustments with shims. Where you insert the shims will depend on what part of the frame is sticking out. For example, when you shut the door, and the door hits on the top first, and doesn't quite close on the bottom, you would loosen up the top anchor, and slide a 1/8" (or thicker/thinner) shim in between the frame and the wall, and place the shim about an inch away from the upper anchor bolt. Tighten the anchor back up and make sure the frame is fitting good. This may require more tapping with a big hammer and wedging into position. If you have an out-swing vault door, adjust the gap in between the frame and door, by removing the square tubing that is located about 4ft up, and in the way of the walk through area. If the door is rubbing on the bottom, loosen the bottom stud, and place a shim all the way across, just below the stud. When you tighten it up, it will drive the frame upward on the open side.
Now that the frame is fitting, fill the gap between the frame and cement wall, which should be about 5/8" to 3/4" with high PSI mortar. Let it cure, then remove the wedges, and fill in the wedge gaps with mortar. Test to see if the door open and closes properly. Finish installing the rest of the anchor studs at this point.
